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51 Matches Found (displaying 1 to 51)
- General
Featured Tip: Assembly of a Portable Video Receiving Ground Station - This article discusses some alternatives and tips for setting up a ground station for receiving down linked video broadcasts... more
- General
Featured Tip: Strengthening Paper Model Rockets - I thought I would share how I strengthen paper model rockets. While paper rockets are cool, they are prone to damage due to transport, flights, and landings. The following tips... more
- General
Featured Tip: Tinker Toys® Stands and Helpers - We all know how hard or cumbersome it can be trying to control a rocket while building, painting, storing, and displaying. Being disabled I found this even harder, but I found a way to solve it and came up with some tools... more
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Featured Tip: Vacuum Forming Machine - I always wanted to build a vacuum forming machine and the Retro Spaceship Contest was just the motivation I needed. After surfing the internet I found... more
- General
Featured Tip: Adjustable Rocket Cradles - I was building my Estes Saturn 5 and the instructions suggested building a crude cradle to hold the body tube while you work. I decided that it would be nice to have a cradle that would adjust to other rockets... more
- General
Featured Tip: Making Apollo Capsule Metal Works - For up-scales on rockets such as Semroc’s Apollo Capsule and other rockets with detailed nose cones and what appears to be metalwork, sometimes it is very tricky... more
- General
Featured Tip: Building REALLY Small Parts for MMX Rockets - I recently scratch built an MMX AGM-12B Bullpup. I haven’t scratch built very many rockets and this was my first Micromaxx rocket altogether. What I have gleaned from this experience isn’t specific to the Bullpup but certainly applies to scratch building as well as to building Micromaxx rockets... more
- General
Featured Tip: Making Bubble Canopies from Light Bulb Packaging - I needed a clear bubble canopy for a project that I am working on so when I was about to discard an empty package of night light bulbs... more
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Featured Tip: Paper Shrouds - I hate paper shrouds! I'll never settle for the single shroud provided in a kit. I always print out extras to end up with one usable shroud. I'll cut out and pre-form four shrouds. Then, glue the four together... more
- General
Featured Tip: Rocket Box Build (for Storage) - I am still developing my fleet of rockets and really don’t have a huge number (although it seems to be growing) but I have already become concerned about how to store my rockets and how to transport them without them getting damaged... more
- General
Featured Tip: Method for Creating Centering Rings and Bulkheads - Using "Engine Mount Template Generator" and thin corrugated USPS Priority Mail boxes (Both are freely available.), you can quickly and easily create small to mid-sized custom rings and bulkheads. You’ll also need... more
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Featured Tip: El Cheapo Rocket Stand - As I have built more and more rockets I have started to have a problem with how to store them. The ones like the Big Bertha have fins that they stand on, but many rockets do not have those big swept fins... more
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Featured Tip: PVC Rocket Stand - This budget 3/4" PVC rocket work stand project served two purposes: first, a place to put my new AMRAAM 4 now that it was nearing completion, and secondly... more
- General
While I was visiting Tripoli in Hearne I noticed that the rockets had the nose cones covered with tube sock or a gun sock depending on size a cheap way to protect those beautiful finishes. So save those single socks! – J.B.B.J. (TX)
- General
A digital multimeter is invaluable in tracking down problems in launch controllers. Bad solder joints, high resistance in switches and even checking the available voltage/amperage from the battery is very easy with a digital meter. I recently converted my power source from small 9 volt batteries (which struggled to supply 2 amps) to NIMH AA batteries, which were capable of around 5 amps with the launch controller. This means a much faster response when launching single engine rockets, and more reliability for 2 and 3 engine clusters, while keeping the whole launcher light and compact. - S.T. (Australia)
- General
Always bring a bottle of medium CA to launches. Recently, the launch lugs on our machine got torn off when we twisted the rocket putting it on the rod. A little CA and ten minutes later we were launching. - (D.K.)
- General
Attaching the Slimline retainer from Giant Leap Rocketry: I used the JB Weld on both of mine. I glued some flat toothpicks to the motor tube 120 deg. apart and sanded them evenly to an almost snug fit with the retainer. That helped keep it centered until the JB Weld set up. Also, wrap some masking tape inside the end of the retainer to keep the epoxy out of the retaining ring groove. - E.B. from RMR
- General
Attaching the Slimline retainer from Giant Leap Rocketry: Masking tape over the retaining groove is key. I didn't use tape on my first retainer, and it is difficult to get the epoxy out of that retaining groove. JB Weld, the long cure stuff, is what I have used with great results. I have fired off six H-128's on the same retainer/tube, and absolutely no sign of any trouble. - C.M. from RMR
- General
Bring kids. Let them do a bunch of stuff at the launch. - J.S.
- General
CA and sand smooth the inside of main BT and MMT to cut wear, friction and to add durability. - D.S.
- General
Carefully read the instructions, test fit when you can it will save you many hours and dollars in frustration. Besides we do this for fun and it should be kept that way. - R.S.
- General
Cheap 1/4" launch lugs can be made from used Bic round pen casings... and keeps them out of the landfill for a little while longer. - B. (OR)
- General
For long motor mount tubes to prevent ejection charges from burning though after multiple launches I like to spray the inside with Header Paint you can get it at your local auto parts store – unknown
- General
For those of you that have a cat(s)....I've been wondering for a while what to do with all those empty soft cat food tins. Well as a BAR....here it is, MMT Centering Rings. The "Tins" are aluminum and can be cut out with hobby knives. The finished rings can be sanded easily, have a painted side which is good for tracing size for cutting out, feel lighter than the cardboard rings supplied with Estes kits, and will work for up to a BT80 tube. I am gluing them to the cardboard upper ring which makes a very good backing to prevent recovery wire knots from pulling thru. And you don't have to wrap or epoxy the recovery wire to the MMT which cuts down on the weight and fin interference. If you don't like this idea....the tins are great containers for brush cleaner, glue mixing, ETC. – J.R.S. (PA)
- General
Here's how to make an inexpensive but attractive display stand for your rocket: Buy a solid wood plaque (they are available for less than $2 each in the craft materials section of your local Wal-Mart) and glue a short length of dowel or a spent engine to the center of it with Elmer's wood glue. You can apply a finish to the plaque if you want, or just leave it as-is. - J.S.
- General
If you are a first time flyer, cluster small Blackpowder motors at first. If you get REALLY experienced, you might want to try an 3x24mm motor rocket, with small Aerotech E motors. It can be a real treat flying AP motors. It is a great accomplishment, and you can burn $$$ at the same time!
- General
If you have a kit that comes with clay nose weight, but discover the clay has gone hard, put it in a plastic bag with a few drops of water, seal the bag, and leave it for a day or so.
- General
In my experience (and I have built dozens of rockets along these lines) paper towel cores are suitable for motors up to at least F and even G if you add a little reinforcement (glue on index cards, or better yet, fiberglass) near the fins. A better choice for maximum altitude is a ~1.25" core from gift-wrap paper. If you can get 29mm motors (F or G) you don't even need a motor mount - just wrap masking tape around the motor to get a snug fit and extra wrapping at the nozzle end to act as a block to prevent the motor from going through the rocket. If you can't find a tube that narrow or you need to use smaller motors, you can make a motor mount out of index cards. (Hint: make centering cones instead of centering rings.) Index cards also make a good, lightweight nose cone. Balsa fins are OK for up to F motors. Cover them with fiberglass and you are ready for a G. I have flown completely fiberglassed rockets like this on H motors and they go 6,000 to 7,000 feet. Someone suggested dry cleaner bags for parachutes. For just a little more money you can use the big black garbage/lawn clean up bags which are incredibly strong. Attach nylon-string shroud lines with fiberglass strapping tape and you have a real tough chute. A few caveats: These are not Skill Level 1 rockets. Get some experience with B's and C's and work your way up. They also aren't pretty but you are going for altitude. - G.M. from RMR
- General
Just based on what I've seen around where I live, I would say that people need to take more time on rocket building. I've seen a lot of mis-aligned fins and paint drips that really destroy the look of the rocket and the reputation of the hobby. - (B.B.)
- General
Make a motor stand from 2 by 4 scrap, 8 to 12 inches long. Layout with a pencil on one inch centers and drill 1/2 inch for mini's, 3/4 for A thru C motors. It makes a great stand for installing igniters and for field use. You can also store the spent motors after your flights. For D size use a one inch drill but leave 1 to 1 1/4 space on center. Use flat bottom drill bits and let the kids paint them. - G. (NY)
- General
Make launch lugs for MicroMaxx scratchbuilts by rolling dry-gum label stock sticky side out around K and S .067 brass rod. Then wash the excess gum off the outer surface. About one-third of a 1-cent postage stamp will make a launch lug. - P.W.C.
- General
Michaels, and other craft stores, sells plastic pallette knives. You can get a set of 6 assorted shapes for around two bucks. While nothing is as handy as your fingers for applying filler, these pallette knives make great spreaders for filler or epoxy when covering large areas. Remember to clean them right after you are done, but NOT WITH ACETONE. - M.S. (PA)
- General
Never assume that the directions are always correct--I found mistakes in directions--especially in the measuring. - D. (PA)
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Next time you buy 100 blank cds for recording (or get one from a friend) keep the plastic holder (it has a large base and long rod for keeping cds bundled) for a airframe stand. It perfect for a drying stand for fin assembly or painting.- R.B.
- General
On any high power rocket; 1. Use tubular nylon, not elastic. 2. Always incorporate an anti-zipper design. 3. Use shear pins on all dual recovery flights. - K.N. (WA)
- General
One can make centering rings from card stock and epoxy, or super glue. First draw the ring. Any CAD program would work, I use the orthographic camera in POV-Ray (a 3D ray tracing program). 110 pound card stock will work in most printers, and one layer of card stock and epoxy is approximately 1/100th of an inch thick (10 mils). Print out as many rings as needed for desired thickness. Cut them out with a hobby knife. When using epoxy, put a pea size of resin and hardener (I use five minute epoxy). Spread the epoxy thin on one ring and apply to another. Apply epoxy to successive rings and put under a book to cure. I use wax paper to keep it from sticking. After it has cured clean up the edges with sand paper, or a Dremel. Voila, a centering ring that will work with whatever tube size will fit on a sheet of paper. And they are as stiff as Aircraft plywood! Enjoy! - E.B. (VA)
- General
People who fly with clubs buy a few rockets, see a lot, learn a lot; people who fly alone spend too much money for too little rocketry and feel they're the only ones doing it. Look up your local club and get involved. - P.W.C. (OR)
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Remember that this is a hobby! Have fun. If it gets to become too much work, than it's no longer a hobby! Try to introduce kids to the hobby! Excite their imaginations! - O.S.
- General
Save Econojet motor packaging. They make very good containers for igniters: Solars, Copperheads, etc; the packaging offers adequate protection for the igniters. Trim off the top hanging loop to save space. There is also a small central grove that was used to store copperheads; put tiny Power Punch igniters in there. - B.B. (TX)
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Slightly damp coffee grounds are great for "scrubbing" your hands after using epoxy, and as a general hand cleanser. Just be sure to rinse out the sink afterwards. - S.J.
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Take the batteries out of your launcher when you are packing up to leave the field and put them into their box, this is so that even if there is a short in your launcher is will not hurt your batteries when not in use. The other good battery tip I have is that when you start to use a new battery put a mark it something like “old” then put a new in your battery box. - D.L. (OH)
- General
The thing that will improve your rocket construction quality the most is * patience *. Sometimes you just have to take your time and do it slow and careful. If you can manage it, try to build more than one rocket at a time. While the epoxy is setting on one you can be sanding the primer on the other. I sometimes have as many as 4 in the works at a time. If you are working on a big project get a couple of low-cost kits to fill the gaps in the big project and give you some variety. - G.A.D. (CA)
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To help hold a body tube straight and level in order to glue fins on, I discovered that leggos work real well. If you have children, you probably have some in the house. You can make something to hold any size body tube and you can even make things to help you align the fins properly. Makes a good stand while the epoxy dries. - C.J.
- General
We need to get kids interested in rocketry and away from the cartoon channel, the nintendo and the like. The boy scouts and jr. high schools can't keep the hobby alive by themselves. - J.M. (OH)
- General
When closing the nose cone (ESTES rockets) it may be a good idea to put a pennon inside of it, in case if it gets lost. For example: This rocket "Name" was created by "Yourname" mm/dd/yy. If found please return to: Your Name, Your Address, Your City, State and Zip - J.U.
- General
When mounting three BT-20 engine tubes in a BT-60 airframe. glue the forward ends of the BT-20's to a 20/60 centering ring. You can fill the small gaps with glue and/or some of Uncle Vern's famous tissue putty (a mixture of half paper tissue and half white glue) BEFORE installing the engine mount assembly. This is much easier -- and lighter -- than filling those whole areas between the BT=20's and the BT-60 AFTER the tubes are mounted in the model. Likewise, a 50/70 cetering ring can be used for mounting three BT-50's in a BT-70 for clustering three D12's or E9;s, eh? - T.W. (AL)
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When you first buy your rocket kit open it up and after examining the parts, put the decal sheet(s) in a safe and easy to find place. That way when you need them they will be in the same perfect condition as the day you first bought the rocket kit. - D.B.Jr. (FL)
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When you need to manufacture your centering rings (say you want to fly that Mean Machine on 24mm E, F and G motors), buying hole saws that nearly match is ok, but there is an easier and more cost effective way. Purchase a variable size hole cutter. The one I have as a little arm that slides out from 7/8" to 4" and can be used to get a perfect fit centering ring. I got mine from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty (part #12-10600) for $9.40 (as of 5-24-01). But you may be able to find one at a local hardware store. Just be sure when using this thing you cut the outside diameter first, then the inside. - G.S. (CA)
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While you are following the previous tip to write the recommended engines on the base of the nose cone also include the name of the rocket. - M
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Write the manufacturers suggested motors on the shoulder of your rockets nosecone with a marker or pencil. That way you will know what motors you can use in the model and the information will be right there when you need it at a launch. Since the nosecone (or payload coupler) shoulder is under the body tube it will be out of sight and not detract from the overall appearance of the model rocket. - B.L. (OH)
- Flight
When you first put your rocket on the launch pad, make sure it slides freely in both directions because if it hangs up on the way down it will generally mean it will hang on the way up. I have seen this happen and the result was not pretty. A friend of mine was flying his new Estes Silver Comet for the first time. At launch the lug was stuck on the rod, then the pad tipped over and the rocket went horizontal into the ground. Luckily no one was hurt and the rocket sustained only minimal damage. A little sanding on the rod or the inside of the launch lug(s) will help prevent this. - D.B.Jr.
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