You Searched For: motors

55 Matches Found (displaying 1 to 55)

1. Motors
   Featured Tip: Make Wire Retainers for Motor Retention - I use wire retainers with #6 screws and t-nuts for motor retention. The wire retainer is easy to make, and it only cost a few pennies per retainer. I make my wire... more
   
   
2. Motors
   Featured Tip: Engine Hook Modification for 18/24mm RMS - For those who use the smaller reloadable motors (18mm and 24mm) and want a simple motor retention device, the engine hook is a viable alternative. No, the engine hook isn’t installed in the normal manner, so it won’t get in the way of the delay element... more
   
   
3. Motors
   Featured Tip: Motor Hooks From Wiper Blades - Making motor hooks out of old windshield wiper blades. This is a very simple procedure that takes only minutes to complete... more
   
   
4. Motors
   Featured Tip: Reload Motor Casing Cleaning - This method works for all brands and sizes of reloadable motor hardware from 18mm to 98mm. It is particularly useful when you want to use the same casing multiple times at a launch as well as... more
   
   
5. Motors
   Featured Tip: Adding a Motor Retention System - I have read a lot of material on mid and high power rocket construction and decided on the following plans to add a good, solid motor retention system to my new LOC Precision Graduator... more
   
   
6. Motors
   Featured Tip: Low Cost Adapters for Low Power Motors - This article describes some low cost, do it your self, options for putting smaller motors in upsized motor mounts. One popular modification when building rockets is to upsize the motor mount. Upsizing the mount provides more options later for motor selection. Those upsized motor mounts provide the ability to scrape... more
   
   
7. Motors
   Featured Tip: Brand's Expendable Extendable Motor Retainer ("BEEMR") - There are a number of very good HPR motor retainer designs available, and I have used some of them, including the famous Kaplow Clip (homemade) and the beautifully machined (and pricey!) Aero Pack products. But in getting involved with very stubby large rockets (my recent tubefin research), I found an unmet need in the retainer arena: a need for an adjustable retainer that holds in big motor casings that stick out 2 to 6 inches or more behind the rocket... more
   
   
8. Motors
   Featured Tip: Motor Retainer - PVC Compression Fittings - I wanted a cheap easy way of not loosing my reload cases, so I made a trip to hardware store, and came back with this. This is enough parts to make 4 retainers. I spent $1.99 for the smaller unit and about $2.50 for the larger one... more
   
   
9. Motors
   Featured Tip: Make A Cheap PVC Motor Retainer - A cheap motor retainer for 29mm motor tubes on rockets with a body diameter of 1.9" or greater... more
   
   
10. Motors
    Featured Tip: RMS Delay Adjustment Tool - AeroTech has published a procedure for modify the delay elements used in its RMS (Reloadable Motor System) motors. Delay elements may be adjusted for any length delay by following... more
    
    
11. Motors
    Retention: Engine retention for larger minimum diameter rockets: I recently lost a larger minimum diameter rocket, , so now I don’t trust myself with friction fitting as the sole method of retention. I bought some 16# Kevlar thread and cut a length several inches long. As you’ll see in the picture, (please forgive the really bad fillet, another coat or two of primer and it’ll be more even), I epoxied one end to the root end of a fin. I then put in an engine and looped the Kevlar over it. The thread is off center, about 1/3 of the way across, maybe less. I then friction fit the engine in as I normally would. I put tape around the base to hold the thread in place. The thread then becomes an adjunctive method of engine retention. The thread looks thin, but it is effective. Even so, I purchased slightly thicker thread (60# test) to use in the future. I don’t use larger engine clips because they’re too wide to comfortably attach to the root of a fin. – G.L.
    
    
    
12. Motors
    Retention: Engine retention for smaller minimum diameter rockets: I’ve lost two 18mm minimum diameter rockets, so now I don’t trust myself with friction fitting as the sole method of retention. I bought some engine clips, the kind Estes uses with a hook on each end. As you’ll see in the picture (please forgive the really bad fillet--this was one of my first rockets, another coat or two of primer and it’ll be more even), I cut off one hook and epoxied it to the fillet of one fin. I do this opposite of the launch lug to help balance out any added drag from the clip, however I try to smooth it out as much as possible. A mistake I made twice was to epoxy the clip too close to the aft of the rocket. This makes it difficult to raise the clip for engine insertion and removal. I then friction fit the engine and tape around the base and follow the normal friction fit technique. The clip becomes an adjunctive method of engine retention. – G.L.
    
    
    
13. Motors
    A well built rocket will last many, many launches. The ejection charge from single-use and reloadable motors is very hot and will eventually burn through the motor mount tube. To extend the life of your birds, always administer a layer of fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth around the MMT. It is a good idea to first assemble the bird until the fin attachment is complete to the MMT, then put on the layer of selected material. This sometimes will make it necessary to do the glass job through the aft end, with the rear CR out of the rocket. Just put masking tape around the MMT area that needs to accept the rear centering ring to avoid getting epoxy/resin/glass buildup around it. At this particular stage in construction, not only does the extra layer keep the MMT from burning through, it also will benefit the strength of the fin tang/MMT joint. Since the area is concealed by the outer airframe, the appearance of your reinforcement will not show. Be sure to check the CG of the rocket when finished because this tip will add weight to the rear of the vehicle. Happy flying and may your birds last a lifetime! - J.K (NE)
    
    
14. Motors
    Clip off those new design Estes engine hooks for 13 mm engine mounts so that there is no metal in the exhaust stream. Make them like the old design. - (D.F.)
    
    
15. Motors
    Engine Mounts- Prevent scorching/burning of body tube: This can be used on any rocket, but is really effective on the Launch Pad kits, where the engine mounts are usually recessed. Prior to final assembly of the engine mount into the body tube, give the inside of the body tube a few light coats of high-temp auto engine enamel. Available at any auto parts store for around 4 bucks for a 12 oz spray can. You may need to give the centering rings a little extra sanding to fit after painting the inside of the tube, but it's well worth it. You can wait and apply the high temp paint after assembly if you choose, but be sure to insert a spent engine in the mount first. Otherwise you may have a tight fit if any overspray gets inside the engine mount. - M.N. (FL)
    
    
16. Motors
    Motor conversion! SO ...you got more time than money, and you like the A series motors? Here's one for you! The Estes A10-3T is ALMOST identical to the performance of the Estes A8-3. (according to their charts). Take a used Estes 18mm motor- A8-3 through C6-7. knock out the clay nozzle with a drill, knife, or screwdriver; BE CAREFUL! Take a 13mm motor, and cut off 1/4 or so, from the top. Test fit a 13mm motor into the 18mm motor. If it doesn't fit, take an x-acto, or similar knife, and strip a couple layers from the inside by slicing lengthwise down the inside, and removing a couple of layers of paper till the 13mm motor fits. Use aliphatic resin glue to hold all the insides down. Test fit a full size 13mm motor again into the engine casing to see if it fits well, and into thick end. Strip layers until the 13mm motor fits easily into the 18mm. Place some quick dry epoxy approx 1 1/4 inches in a ring up inside the 18mm motor. Take the 1/4 piece of 13mm motor you cut earlier, and insert it into the 18mm motor, followed by a full size spent 13mm motor into the 18mm casing, until the full size 13mm motor is flush with the end of the 18mm casing. Quickly remove the 13mm casing. (Just like placing any other engine block). When it dries, place tape around a 13mm motor, until it fictions fits insides the 18mm casing, and use as you would any other 18mm motor! VOILA! A regular A8-3 for the price of a mini motor. You can reuse the 18mm casing too! :) CHEAPER flights! – A.T. (FL)
    
    
17. Motors
    On larger kits with Aerotech engines, add some blind nuts in with Kaplow clips so you can retain the Aerotech motors easily
    
    
18. Motors
    On smaller kits (18mm), make sure to add tape around your rocket motor, to allow for a friction fit, so your motor does not eject
    
    
19. Motors
    Regarding 18mm Estes rocket motor mounts; the metal engine clip needs to be reinforced to prevent damage to the mount tube during the recovery ejection. The tube tends to be torn at the point where the clip is inserted in the small slot cut at the top. To prevent damage, put some two-ton epoxy under the clip when it's mounted. After the centering rings are installed over the engine mount and around the clip, put some more epoxy over the clip so it conforms over part of the tube. Don't forget to put a small blob over the point where the clip cuts into the tube as well. - P.R.
    
    
20. Motors
    Remember, if you intend to use Aerotech composite motors as well as Estes black powder motors in your rocket, test the rocket for stability using the Aerotech motors. They are heavier than the Estes of the same size (18mm, 24mm). If the rocket is stable with the Aerotech motors, it will be more so on the Estes motors. An over- stable rocket is safer than a marginally stable rocket.
    
    
21. Motors
    Retention: The thin flat metal reinforcement strips from old windshield wiper blades are great for making Estes-style motor retainer clips for model rockets. The mechanic where I get my car serviced saves them for me. – H.K.
    
    
22. Motors
    Retention: for use with blind t-nuts, I cut some lengths of small brass bar stock. I've since heard that aluminum window screen clips work very well. - from RMR
    
    
23. Motors
    Retention: for use with blind t-nuts, the aluminum clips for screen windows work well, I often use aluminum 'standoff' spacers to 'jacket' the screw and give a bit more stability to the clip. You can get the kind of clips with a slot instead of just a screw hole, I use these when the mount is 38mm but I intend to also use a 29mm adapter. when you do this you have to pay attention to the placement of the blind nuts...so the clip will reach the closure 'lip' for both size engines. This is also how you retain the adapter at the same time! - from RMR
    
    
24. Motors
    Retention: for use with blind t-nuts, use clothes hanger wire. Make a loop in one end, and a hook out of the other. Easy to do with a coupler pairs of needle-nose pliers.
    
    
25. Motors
    Retention: What I use is found in the electrical section. Electrical conduit in homes are often "tied" down to studs using a metal strap. I offten use the 3/8 inch size for 14-2 to 12-2 cables. Menards sells this product made by Gampak # 44919, ISBN #0-31857-44919-3 - from RMR
    
    
26. Motors
    RMS: I've been using baby wipes to clean RMS casings, which works OK, but not great. And when I was out of baby wipes after my last flight of the fall, I let the casing sit for a couple months without cleaning it. When I got around to trying to clean it, the dried-on schmutz wouldn't budge. Then my Rocket Bunny (my wife Terrie) suggested a solution of 1 part white vinegar, 1 part liquid dish soap, and 1 part hot water. I soaked the casing for 2 or 3 hours, and all the residue had turned to soft black goo, that I was able to wipe off with a wet paper towel, with no scrubbing! - J.D.
    
    
27. Motors
    RMS: Vaseline is not the best lubricant for reloadables because it can melt down into the propellant. It didn't happen to me, but a long-time flyer said that it can, especially with hotter motors.
    
    
28. Motors
    Small engine hooks (13mm) on Estes 13mm motors- interfere with blast and causes dangerous flights. - P
    
    
29. Motors
    To clean threads on AT motor casings - Dawn dish detergent, hot water and toothbrush. - D.R. from RMR
    
    
30. Motors
    To clean threads on AT motor casings - I use a mixture of 50% water and 50% Simple Green. I have a gallon jug for the field and 5 gal. bucket at home. In the field, I use a toothbrush, not a brass one. The solution can be used over and over without negative affects. I usually let the stubborn stuff soak for 2 days before trying to remove deposits. WARNING: Simple Green turns out to be a much nastier solvent than you would think. The military is saying not to use it for their stuff any more: http://safety.army.mil/pages/lessonslearned/simplegreens.html - J.P. and M.S. from RMR
    
    
31. Motors
    To clean threads on AT motor casings: A stiff toothbrush & Gun Scrubber Solvent. - N.T. from RMR
    
    
32. Motors
    To create a horizontal tumble recovery, use a paper-clip and rubber band to catch the kicking motor on rockets like the Mosquito
    
    
33. Motors
    To prevent burning from motors: http://www.mcmaster.com has 'Thermeez ceramic putty' that I've used to protect the tail from composite exhaust. It's good to 2300 deg. It's an air dry material with the consistency of toothpaste that dries to an Al2O3 ceramic. Smear a coat on the affected areas. - (T.B. from RMR)
    
    
34. Motors
    When staging with black powder engines, it is possible to still use an engine clip in the upper stage and yet have the booster taped to it's bottom. Just remove the part of the clip below the first bend and cut a small notch in the top of the booster engine before taping them together. The clip will fit into the notch through the tape. Certainly easier than friction fitting the upper stage engine. - (A.M.)
    
    
35. Motors
    You can make motor blocks from a section of used motor casing cut off with a razor saw and glued in position. - (D.S.)
    
    
36. Fins
    Inexpensive Fiberglass Fins: I've modified a number of low power rocket kits (like the Estes Mean Machine and Screamin Mimi) with 24mm mounts by using an extended length mount in so I can use composite F and G motors in. Even an F motor will "exceed the speed of paper" on many of these models. But real G10 fiberglass fins are clearly overkill, so I've come up with a low-budget technique for fiberglass fins, appropriate to the task. I use fiberglass printed circuit board material from the local Fry's/RadioShack or whatever, and cut it with a pair of tin snips to the right shape, using the fins in the model kit as a guide. I usually end up buying the kind with copper on one side, in six inch squares, or six-by-nine inch sheets. One six inch square is enough material to make the fins for a Mean Machine, and is only a few dollars. I also usually add a thru-the-wall tab to the root long enough to reach the motor mount, and cut thru-the-wall slots with a hobby knife (others have described suitable techniques for cutting the slots). After you cut the fins, you can bevel the leading and trailing edges with a metal rasp or flat file, and then rough up the area near the root with sandpaper so that your epoxy will stick. When you rough up the root, make sure you don't rough it up any higher than your fillet will go. Bonding on these fiberglass fins with nice epoxy fillets will give you a fin can that is indestructible. Since the printed circuit board fiberglass sheets are already very smooth, you don't need any special prep before painting, just make sure they stay clean during construction (masking tape). The best part is that making fiberglass fins this way takes less time for me than it does to putz around with filling the balsa so that it paints without showing the grain. For a cool retro-tech look you may be able to find at an electronics junk dealer printed circuit boards that have been silkscreened and etched but without components: make the fins out of these, but mask them off and leave them unpainted. – B.D.
    
    
37. Flight
    Check the CG on your rocket before attempting to fly it, even if it's a kit! This is especially important if you've modified a kit to fly on larger motors.
    
    
38. Flight
    Flying Frisbee rockets - Some of us also remember flying Frisbee rockets by themselves. It took two motors, one to lift the Frisbee, another to spin it. And if both didn't light at once, it was not pretty. Tip/warning: 1) Most adhesives, particular epoxies, don't stick to Frisbee worth a darn. 2) Use a very SHORT launch rod, or the thing will rod whip like you've never seen. Something like 6". I even epoxied the motor tubes to the Frisbee and I had reinforcing lines sewn around the tubes and the Frisbee. I used 18mm Estes motors (I think, I don't think I would have used D12's...) and they ignited at once. The motors and tubes tore off the Frisbee very fast as it spun up to speed. Everyone on the range "ducked & covered" - except me. I stood there and watched the incredibly fast spinning Frisbee hover above the launch rack and slowly land. That's why I do not recommend this type of model (or a Monocopter) anywhere where there is ANY dry brush or any open range boxes (hate to have a burning motor land in your box full or motors - RMS or otherwise). - BK and FS from RMR
    
    
39. Flight
    Here is an idea if you launch multiple rockets and can't remember which motors are recommended for which rocket. Before you throw the packaging away on your Estes kit, find on the cardboard slick panel where it says, 'RECOMMENDED ENGINES' and taking a sharp exacto knife, barely cut just through the slick portion of the cardboard around the engine info. Keep the corners rounded. Then, pry the slick skin portion with all the info. using the tip of the knife to start it. You will be surprised how easy it is. Then, using some white or yellow glue, place this 'decal' somewhere between the bottom fins of your painted rocket; let dry, then gloss coat as you normally would. This is real handy and not unsightly at all. Scale modelers would probably disagree with me. - G.G. (KS)
    
    
40. Flight
    If you are planning on modifying a kit to use larger motors, a handy method of checking the CG is (A) to build and install (without gluing) the stock motor mount with the largest motor the rocket is supposed to fly on, (B) balance the rocket, then mark the balance point. Then, (C) remove the stock motor mount, install the new mount, install the largest motor you intend to use, and check the balance. Finally, (D) add nose weight as needed to move the balance point to the location marked in (B).
    
    
41. Flight
    Pick a launch site suitable for the rockets you are flying, and the wind conditions you are flying in. A football field is often suggested as suitable for lower- powered rockets, but bear in mind the surrounding terrain. A football field surrounded by woods is guaranteed trouble! This is especially true with Estes kits, which often come with chutes that are bigger than needed, resulting in excessive drifting (the Black Brant comes to mind). If you can't find a really good- sized field, use less powerful motors in your rockets, and/ or consider changing or modifying the chute.
    
    
42. Flight
    RockSim is a saver of rockets...use it! Don't blindly pick motors and stuff them in your rocket. - K.B.
    
    
43. General
    If you are a first time flyer, cluster small Blackpowder motors at first. If you get REALLY experienced, you might want to try an 3x24mm motor rocket, with small Aerotech E motors. It can be a real treat flying AP motors. It is a great accomplishment, and you can burn $$$ at the same time!
    
    
44. General
    In my experience (and I have built dozens of rockets along these lines) paper towel cores are suitable for motors up to at least F and even G if you add a little reinforcement (glue on index cards, or better yet, fiberglass) near the fins. A better choice for maximum altitude is a ~1.25" core from gift-wrap paper. If you can get 29mm motors (F or G) you don't even need a motor mount - just wrap masking tape around the motor to get a snug fit and extra wrapping at the nozzle end to act as a block to prevent the motor from going through the rocket. If you can't find a tube that narrow or you need to use smaller motors, you can make a motor mount out of index cards. (Hint: make centering cones instead of centering rings.) Index cards also make a good, lightweight nose cone. Balsa fins are OK for up to F motors. Cover them with fiberglass and you are ready for a G. I have flown completely fiberglassed rockets like this on H motors and they go 6,000 to 7,000 feet. Someone suggested dry cleaner bags for parachutes. For just a little more money you can use the big black garbage/lawn clean up bags which are incredibly strong. Attach nylon-string shroud lines with fiberglass strapping tape and you have a real tough chute. A few caveats: These are not Skill Level 1 rockets. Get some experience with B's and C's and work your way up. They also aren't pretty but you are going for altitude. - G.M. from RMR
    
    
45. General
    Make a motor stand from 2 by 4 scrap, 8 to 12 inches long. Layout with a pencil on one inch centers and drill 1/2 inch for mini's, 3/4 for A thru C motors. It makes a great stand for installing igniters and for field use. You can also store the spent motors after your flights. For D size use a one inch drill but leave 1 to 1 1/4 space on center. Use flat bottom drill bits and let the kids paint them. - G. (NY)
    
    
46. General
    When you need to manufacture your centering rings (say you want to fly that Mean Machine on 24mm E, F and G motors), buying hole saws that nearly match is ok, but there is an easier and more cost effective way. Purchase a variable size hole cutter. The one I have as a little arm that slides out from 7/8" to 4" and can be used to get a perfect fit centering ring. I got mine from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty (part #12-10600) for $9.40 (as of 5-24-01). But you may be able to find one at a local hardware store. Just be sure when using this thing you cut the outside diameter first, then the inside. - G.S. (CA)
    
    
47. General
    Write the manufacturers suggested motors on the shoulder of your rockets nosecone with a marker or pencil. That way you will know what motors you can use in the model and the information will be right there when you need it at a launch. Since the nosecone (or payload coupler) shoulder is under the body tube it will be out of sight and not detract from the overall appearance of the model rocket. - B.L. (OH)
    
    
48. Glue
    Since I have been pushing the limits out here, I discovered something about epoxy. It's not infallible. If the motor cluster is large enough, like 100 black powder motors, the epoxy could melt. Anyone out there who wants to try this needs to find another adhesive. Epoxy has been fine for my 4 J and 4 K birds and has worked for larger numbers, up to 15 G's. But a man in Tucson had his motor mount disintegrate when he tried it with 100 Estes D's. JB Weld is more temperature-stable and holds up in automotive applications. Try that instead of epoxy in critical areas of the motor mount. - M.J.W. (AZ)
    
    
49. Glue
    Soaking body tubes and balsa fins in thin CA will strengthen the material considerably, I've been told. Especially useful if you intend to fly Estes kits with composite motors! This can help resist 'zippering', the Estes' Dent, and increase the life of motor mount adapter tubes. Also, this technique makes sanding body tubes much easier, as the glue eliminates the paper tube's tendency to shred if over-sanded.
    
    
50. Igniters
    Featured Tip: How To Build A Simple Cluster Igniter - One of the biggest reasons for cluster rockets remaining unpopular is the amperage needed to simultaneously ignite the motors. 2 amps per igniter is needed. Your basic commercial igniter cannot... more
    
    
51. Igniters
    Cluster ignition - One more important tip: check the continuity of each igniter AFTER plug installation but BEFORE you twist them all together. But this test won't tell you if your Estes igniter is shorted upstream of the pyrogen tip. If one of the igniters is pre-shorted, you'll never get that particular motor lit. This is all the more reason to go with thin (such as 30 AWG kynar wire) Igniterman or Magnalite igniters to light BP motors. - B.K. and C.P. from RMR
    
    
52. Igniters
    Create an igniter tool (see photo 1 and photo 2). This tool is made (using a grinder) from a small standard-blade screwdriver and has a small blade ~2mm wide at the end. It's sharpened and slightly rounded. It is used to lightly scrape the oxidation (the primary cause of misfires) from the exposed fuel up inside the engine past the ceramic nozzle on bp motors. If you scratch too much, it changes the shape of the ignition chamber and reduces the thrust. If you dump out the scrapings and have more than a cubic millimeter, you've scraped too much. Then the tool is used to tamp a bit of wadding into the nozzle to hold the igniter in (pre-tape style). – J.L.
    
    
53. Igniters
    Install igniters in motors at the last minute. This reduces the chance of the igniter slipping out of contact with the propellant, thus increasing the chances of a successful launch.
    
    
54. Nose Cones
    Measuring lead shot for nose weight: a 35mm film can holds about 8oz of lead shot. And one of the red AT caps (don't recall which one, but I think it's from 29mm motors) taped to a popsicle stick holds about an ounce. - B.K. from RMR
    
    
55. Safety
    ALWAYS pre-flight check your rocket, launch system, wiring and ignition source before firing. I've seen several potential mishaps that fortunately didn't hurt anyone, even with the the small A-D motors. - M.P. (SD)