Before I start, I want to post some of an email that I sent to Tim van Milligan yesterday: I want to state publicly how pleased -- no, *thrilled* -- I am with the Saturn V kit. The level of detail is outstanding, the fit of parts is beautiful, and (my opinion) it isn't really as hard to build as some might think, thanks to a highly detailed and very clear set of video instructions. It's my sincere hope that the folk on RMR, reading about my experiences with the Saturn V, will decide to purchase one of their own. In the latest newsletter, you used the word "vaporware". That word does not belong in the same sentence with "Apogee Rockets" unless the word "not" is also included. Way back when, I wrote a check for the Saturns and dropped it in the mail without a qualm. I knew you'd come through, I love the Saturn V, and I'm looking forward to Apogee's Saturn IB! ---------- Now to the LEM transition: Remember, YMMV. The LEM transition is stated in the video as being a bit flexible. Since the big transition was more flexible than I like, I did what I thought I should have done with the big 'un. I was wrong; this didn't work too well, but I'll tell you what happened anyway. Two photocopies of the LEM transition were run onto coverstock. They're not exact size -- photocopies rarely are -- but they'll do for this purpose. The inside curve on each was cut 2-3 mm *inside* the line. The outside curve was cut about 4mm inside the line on Copy A, about 8 mm short on Copy B. Objective: to have the two additional transitions nest neatly inside the one supplied. The Original transition and Copy A were was cut out and curled lightly. Copy A was used in place of the "Overlap" piece of Original. A little rubber cement on the outside of Copy A, a little on the inside ends of Original. It's a little hard to get the ends of Original together but eventually it works. [Incidentally, the idea of using rubber cement for the transitions is a great one, which never occurred to me. I'll be using that one in the future. Thanks Tim!] The ends of Copy A are trimmed up a little with scissors. They don't have to fit together perfectly, in fact, I left a few mm gap between the ends. For Copy B I cut off the Overlap piece and rubber-cement the thing together, just like Original was. The object is to get Copy B to fit smoothly inside the assembly we're working on. A small batch of 30-min epoxy was mixed and brushed onto the inside of Copy A, then the outside of Copy B was coated. Excess was scraped off (Note to myself: need slower epoxy for this. Thinner epoxy would be nice too. I'm all out of System 3). Copy B was inserted into Copy A which was already in Original. Push the assembly together tightly. When the epoxy has partially set, slide the whole assembly over the service module tube and onto its coupler. Fasten it in place as directed on the instructions. Wick CA onto the outside as per the instructions. Problem: either I didn't push Copy B tightly enough inside, or I didn't fit Copy A properly. In either event, there appears to be a little separation between the shrouds in some areas. It's a lot stiffer now in most places, but it probably would have been better to have used Tim's method of an extra ring, or to use the carbon fiber or fiberglass inside the shroud. Oh well... I should mention that I've done this sort of thing before, making several paper shrouds and gluing them together for a strong composite structure. You can make some pretty big shrouds using a pair of trammel points and a long aluminum rod to draw the curves. P'rfesser