Scratch Pershing 1A Original Design / Scratch Built

Scratch - Pershing 1A {Scratch}

Contributed by Jim Senecal

Flight Rating: starstar_borderstar_borderstar_borderstar_border
Published: 2011-10-03
Manufacturer: Scratch
Style: Scale

Brief

This model was my attempt to recreate the Estes "Maxi Brute" Pershing 1A.  I owned one of the Estes kits when I was a kid but never finished it, and I can't even recall whatever became of it.  I have always been disappointed that Estes has never reissued this kit.  In any case, I was snacking on some Planter's peanuts one day when I realized the can's diameter appeared to be similar to the Estes BT-101 body tube, and I started to consider the possibilities.  

Components

  • 4 20.5 oz. Planter's peanut cans, minus peanuts.
  • 1 4" diameter styrofoam cone
  • 2 24" plastic parachutes
  • Scrap balsa and cardboard stock
  • Shock cord material
  • 2 24 mm engine tubes and "E" engine retainers

Construction

I downloaded plans for the Estes Maxi Brute Pershing from the JimZ website.  My model is not an exact clone or exact scale copy but the plans gave me a good place to start.  To begin, I stripped off the metal ends from the four peanut cans and removed the inner foil linning.  I glued all the cans together, reinforcing the seams with paper on the inside.  I then sanded the outside of the cans to remove the printed paper, and filled the seams with Elmer's wood filler.  Once the tube was ready I cut it down to 21.75" in length.  You could of course avoid all this by just buying a new tube.  For the engine mount I decided to use a 24 mm double cluster.  I used two old tubes from my collection of junk and reduced their diameter and length to fit an Estes "E" engine.  I made engine retainers by clipping and bending a metal coat hanger to length.  I made thrust rings by cutting them from a used 24 mm engine casing, I glued these in the ends of the engine tubes above the end of the retainers in the usual fashion.  I then glued the two engine tubes together, and then glued this assembly to a stuffer tube made from a paper towel tube which was about 9" long.  Openings between the engine tubes and stuffer tube were sealed and reinforced with glue.  Centering rings just under 4" in diameter were glued to each end of this assembly and the engine mount was done.  Once dry this was glued into the body tube.  

The nose cone was made by rolling a piece of typing paper into a cone and sealing it with super glue.  The cone was then glued onto the pointed end of a styrofoam cone from Michael's, which had a base diamter of 4".  On the wide end I glued a shoulder made from the remains of a peanut can, reduced in diameter to fit inside the body tube.  I sealed up the styrofoam under a layer of Elmer's wood filler.  I glued an old shoe lace to the inside of the shoulder to serve as a shock cord to attach the parachute to.  The cone was sanded and primed several times to smooth it out.  I later ended up cutting the cone at about 4" from the tip so that I could add 3 oz. of fishing sinkers glued in with super glue.  This was done to balance the rocket.  The cone ended up about 1" too short and does not have the reduction at the tip, but after final painting it does have the Pershing look.   

To make the fins I outlined the shapes on a cardboard file folder, cut them out and folded them to shape.  I created fin frames from scrap balsa then glued the paper shapes over the frames.  The fins were all sealed with super glue to strengthen them.  I made the fin pads from scraps of 1/8" balsa, 2 layers thick.  The pads are actually way too thick for scale but look like I recall the Estes ones did.  I have since seen a real Pershing and pads 1/8" or less would be more realistic.  I sanded the bottoms of the pads over a BT-80 to induce a curve on the bottom.  The pads were glued to the body tube in the appropriate locations and then the fins were glued to the pads.  I made 1/4" launch lugs from rolled paper sealed with super glue.  The lugs were glued to balsa standoffs.  Two conduits were made from scrap 1/8" balsa and glued to the main tube as in the JimZ plans.  I glued another old shoe lace to the inside of the body tube in the Estes fashion as a shock cord to which the parachute would be attached.

The model ended up just over 40" tall and 1 lb. 1.5 oz.

Finishing

Finishing this rocket was more involved due to the materials use.  All balsa was coated with thinned Elmer's wood filler, then sanded smooth.  It took three rounds of priming and sanding to get the body tube reasonably smooth.  When the model was ready for final painting I wanted to try for the look of the Estes kit.  The main body and lower section of the nose cone were painted with some old dark green Krylon spraypaint I had in the garage.  The white on the cone was Walmart gloss white.  The orange stripes were made by spraying typing paper with orange Rustoleum, cut to size, sprayed with 3M glue and applied to the rocket.  The black stripes were done last using Tester's flat black.  I created the army lettering by cutting the letters from the JimZ plans, spraying them white, 3M glue on the back and then applied to the model.  A coat of Tester's flat spray tied it all together.  Reproduction decals for this model are available from several websites it you really want to go all out.

Flight

I am waiting for the opportunity to fly the model and will post the results as soon as this occurs.

Update  11/25/2011:  I was finally able to attempt the first flight with the Pershing today.  Unfortunately all did not go well.  I carefully prepped the model with 2 Estes D12-3 motors, including stuffing recovery wadding in the upper end of the motors.  This is done to prevent the ejection charge from one motor igniting the other in the event one does not fire normally.  I filled the stuffer tube with several sheets of wadding and lined the bottom of the parachute compartment.  I attached one 24" chute to the nose cone shock cord, and another to the rocket body shock cord.  There was plenty of room for all this.  I installed standard Estes igniters in each engine and the rocket was ready to go.  

At the launch site there was little to no wind and I set the rocket up on the pad.  I attached the igniter clips and checked for continuity, which showed good.  Following a short countdown I pressed the launch button and there was ignition, but only on one motor.  The Pershing shot up to about 50 feet then seemed to lose steam and started leaning over to the side.  The rocket flew on in a horizontal fashion for another 50 feet, and then fell from the air, landing hard on one side, with an audible thud.  I am sure the ejection charge must have fired but the nose cone was jammed on and did not eject.  At impact the nose cone shattered into a number of pieces, and both fins on the side of the body tube which hit the ground were mangled.  Based on the way the nose cone disintegrated I am not sure it would have even survived under a parachute landing, clearly a big cone made of paper and stryofoam is not the best solution.  

While this flight was a spectacular disaster for the Pershing, it should live to fly again.  I was never really happy with the shape of the nose cone anyway so now I have a good reason to start over.  Next time I am using balsa.  The fins will be a quick repair.  The bigger question is how to ensure that both motors ignite, as this rocket needs the power.  So far in my rocket career I have about a 50% success rate on cluster ignition using Estes igniters and an Estes launch controller.  Does anyone have suggestions on how to ensure cluster ignition without carrying a car battery around?

Recovery

This will be described after the model is flown.  Still nothing to add here since the chutes never had a chance!

 

Comments:

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Hans "Chris" Michielssen (October 6, 2011)

Wow! A great job on a true scratch model. I'm going to start saving peanut cans.

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