You Searched For: recovery

66 Matches Found (displaying 1 to 66)

1. Recovery
   Featured Tip: Stripping Old Shockcord Mounts - When you have an old cardboard rocket that breaks it's shock cord, you usually just glue in another folded paper support opposite the old one. Then what do you do when that shock cord breaks or burns through? I wanted to remove 2 of my old... more
   
   
2. Recovery
   Featured Tip: Making a Parachute - I will attempt to document the steps and consolidate the information I gathered from here to make a nylon hemi parachute. Don't let your wife's or mother's sewing machine intimidate you...you can do it! Let me preface by saying... more
   
   
3. Recovery
   Featured Tip: Reinforcing Plastic Parachutes - There are many people who dread assembling rocket chutes and for the fumbled or large fingered specialists this can be a chore. Many kits come with chutes that have to have the shroud lines attached. Hopefully this picture tip will help. Using this method will result in a very strong... more
   
   
4. Recovery
   Featured Tip: Rocket Locator (Beeper) - I grew increasing tired of searching (sometimes aimlessly) for my rockets. To help shorten my quests to recover, I modified a Radio Shack mini personal alarm to attach to my rockets... more
   
   
5. Recovery
   Always have extra parachutes in your range box because they always get burned eventually. I make my own chutes' out of plastic garbage bags, kite string, those little stick on white circles (which you can buy at any stationary store) and fishing snap swivels. As often as a chute' gets burned they are far too expensive to be buying all the time. - R.F.
   
   
6. Recovery
   Always make sure to re-pack the parachute prior to launch if it has been stored inside the rocket and use talcum/baby powder to prevent sticking on plastic chutes and for a visual locator on ejection. - M.C.
   
   
7. Recovery
   Always re-mount the shock cords on any Estes ready to fly (RTF) rocket at the front of the body tube using a paper mount. The shock cord WILL burn through if you don't. - S.B.
   
   
8. Recovery
   As if everyone didn’t know already get your chutes on snap swivels!!! then when you are done slide the swivel down a soda-straw to keep all the shroud lines nice and neat and tangle free. - (S.B.)
   
   
9. Recovery
   Baffle System: In Estes kits, (non minimum diameter kits, that use a separate motor mount centered in the BT) Estes often gives you a yellow engine-sized tube to use as a tool to properly position the motor retaining ring. Use the tube to make a baffle. Cap the tube with a balsa or ply disk (lots of glue) and cut a bunch of diagonal holes with an exacto-knife. Glue it in place in the end of the motor mount tube. - B.M. (MA)
   
   
10. Recovery
    Baffle System: The use of a baffle system can eliminate the use of wadding.
    
    
11. Recovery
    Change any Estes shock cord *immediately* with an flat or round sewing elastic (those used for underpants) at least three times as long as the Estes one. - S.F.
    
    
12. Recovery
    Drogues: My rule of thumb is to make the drogue about 1/3 the diameter of the main. This will make the rocket descend under the drogue at ~3x the speed that it descends under the main. - A.S. from RMR
    
    
13. Recovery
    Ever lose a large rocket because it came down in dense undergrowth (like the stuff at the edge of the swamp next to Livingston Street Park in Tewksbury, MA, often used for launches by CENTRAL MASSACHUSETTS SPACEMODELING SOCIETY (sorry about the caps), I had my Estes Pro Series Patriot missile come down in this stuff on its maiden launch, and didn't find it that day, but spent over an hour the next morning wading thru tall (over my head) scrubby brush and small trees to find it, draped in the bushes. Right after that, I searched the Internet and found this: http://www.keyringer.com/ov1.html I'll attach one to the nose cone, using fishing swivel hooks (cheap at Walmart) and keep one with me, and hopefully I won't spend an aggravating amount of time finding a rocket if it happens again. It works on sound signals, and you have to be within a few hundred feet of the rocket - in searching for mine, I walked right by it a number of times, but just couldn't see it. They were delivered today, next launch is this weekend (at a much larger field), I'll report back on if they survive launch, ejection, and if they can actually be heard out in a field. - R.P. (MA)
    
    
14. Recovery
    For cheap colorful streamers, buy a roll of surveyors tape at your local "big box" hardware store. The tape I've seen is available in highly visible dayglow pink or dayglow green and runs just a few bucks for 500 ft (150 m). Both colors make for easy tracking. I usually use about 18" (0.5 m) for a smaller diameter rocket and I've used twice that length, or even double streamers, for larger rockets. - M.S. (PA)
    
    
15. Recovery
    For parachutes that use tape dots for shroud line retention: Put the tape dot on, put the hole reinforcement ring on the back, and using an Xacto drill a 1/8 inch hole in the middle, then tie the shroud lines.
    
    
16. Recovery
    Go to your local "Mega" mart store. In the sporting goods department you will find emergency blankets in the camping supply section. For around $2 you get a 5' x 7' sheet of aluminized mylar-like material that makes great parachutes and streamers. - T.B.
    
    
17. Recovery
    Go to your local dollar store and purchase a vinyl table cloth. You can cut your streamers from it and make them any size you want. They come textured too for a little more drag. Saves money and goes a long way. – J.V. (IN)
    
    
18. Recovery
    Here's a tip for using Kevlar twine/cord - Find some "wiffle" golf balls, and tie one right about where the shock cord leaves the airframe. That way it won't zipper. For bigger projects, a tennis ball works great! - W.M. from RMR
    
    
19. Recovery
    Here's an anti-zipper trick brought to you from the Queen City Area Rocket Klub (QUARK): Wrap a small strip of masking tape around the shock cord where it comes out of the body tube. The wrap should be about an inch below the tube, extending to about an inch above it. 5-6 laps around the cord should be sufficient. This takes a lot of the sharpness off the cord, providing many zipper-free flights. - C.S. (OH)
    
    
20. Recovery
    Here's an idea for a cheaper alternative to kevlar heat shields. Go to your local WalMart or automotive supply store and get a package of fiberglass repair cloth. It comes in 3 foot square "sheets". Mark your specific size circle on the sheet with a permanent sharpie marker, then double the cloth over and cut out with scissors. Sew the two halves together and add double fold seam tape, also found at WalMart, to the edge to keep it from fraying. Fiberglass is totally flame proof, and it costs a fraction of what kevlar does. You can also make it any size to fit custom tubes and chutes!! - (K.H.)
    
    
21. Recovery
    I replace the factory shock cord on my model rockets (up to E engined) with K&S Engenering Kevlar Thread no. 801. Kevlar is heat resistant and very strong. I use approximately twice the length of the factory supplied shock cord. I attach it by tying it around the engine mount tube and then running it between the centering ring and the BT. I attach the loose end to the nose cone along with the parachute on a swivel snap. - M.Q. (OR)
    
    
22. Recovery
    I too am still searching for the perfect shock cord material. There are a few observations to keep in mind :
    1. For elastic cord, keep the rubber content low, polyester high. Rubber withstands lower temperatures than poly. Estes seems top use the very springy high rubber content stuff - Quest seems to use stiffer stuff. If you go to a craft or fabric store they will usually have at least two types of elastic - soft springy stuff and stiffer material. They should also give temperature ratings and composition. If the label says not suitable for high heat dryers then avoid it. More than 30-35% rubber content also indicates low temperature material.
    2. Kevlar will probably not burn through, but it's low elasticity makes it poor under sharp shock conditions. It will tend to snap at ejection instead of stretching too reduce the shock.
    3. Nose weight also factors in here. Light noses can use almost anything because there is little mass hitting the end of that tether.
    4. A two part cord with Kevlar as the body tube anchor and a fairly short section of stiff elastic on the nose cone seems to work better. But, make sure your knot doesn't slip and remember that one knot reduces the strength by about 50%. I have also had Kevlar alone rip through the fin root on egg lofters.
    5. No one style will always work. You must consider the trade offs. Strong enough to withstand the ejection forces, flexible enough to reduce the shock, but not so springy that the nose cone smashes back into the rocket. Able to withstand the hot gases. And, of course, well anchored.
    6. Recent comments to move the chute anchor off the nose cone may also help. If the crumby nose cone anchor snaps, you lose a nose cone, but the chute is still attached to the main rocket. The mid cord chute anchor may also reduce the recoil damage. I have recently tried converting a few rockets to this style - so far no worse anyway. Better? Can't tell yet. - G.S. from RMR
    
    
23. Recovery
    If you fly large airframes...bring more than one shovel. I lent out my only shovel at a launch and it came back broken. -(C.S.)
    
    
24. Recovery
    Kevlar around the MMT - or even light wire fishing leaders (pre-looped sort sold in sets) - is better than an Estes type shock cord mount as it doesn't hang up the parachute as easily and allows replacement of the elastic (assuming Kevlar tied with an end loop just below the rim of BT, so elastic cord can be attached to loop to limit zippering) BTW, the way to do this is to slip the kevlar back through the MMT so it comes out the exhaust end while installing. That way you can get to the end after installation. It's also a good way to replace the elastic part of the cord after many flights if necessary. It's usually a much shorter run backwards than up to the top! - S. and B.K. from RMR
    
    
25. Recovery
    Making Mylar parachutes - I use 1/4 mil Mylar for duration chutes, 1/2 mil for heavier rockets. You can also use thin poly drop cloth for chutes. A cheap source of 18x30" half mil is the "party wrap" sold in gift and card stores. You can make one 18"and one 12" chute from each piece. This is what TLP uses for their chutes. Another is the original space blankets that are gold/orange on one side, silver on the other. They come in very large sheets. The all silver plastic stuff doesn't work nearly as well as the Mylar. First I decide on the size. For small PD models that can be anywhere from 12-30" (I can pack a 30" Mylar chute in BT-5 easily!), for ELD I've been known to make 57" monsters! I make my small to medium chutes octagonal, larger chutes like the ELD monsters 16 sided. First, I cut a square the size I want my chute. Then I start folding it in half, on the diagonals, until I have a 22.5 degree wedge (11.25 for the 16 sided chutes). That makes twice as many layers as I want sides. Now using a paper cutter, I cut one straight edge along the edge of the material through all of the layers. Scissors can be carefully used instead. Don't mess up the stack! Unfold and you have a perfect octagon (hexadecimagon?). Try it a couple times with scrap newspaper until you get the hang of it. For duration chutes I tape the shroud lines from corner to corner. Cut four (or 8 for a 16-side chute) shroud lines (I use B weight nylon string) about 2.5 times the diagonal diameter of the chute. I'll gather them all up, fold in half, and attach a snap swivel to the exact center of the bundle. Now untangle and fan out the lines. Using sticky Mylar or the Apogee/Ring yellow tacky tape, tape the lines to the eight (16) corners working around the chute so there are no tangles or crossed lines. For heavy-duty recovery chutes of half mil Mylar, I use "over the top" shroud lines of E weight nylon. Cut these lines about 3.5 times the corner-to-corner diameter of the chute. Again, find the center of the lines. Also, mark the center of the canopy. Now one at a time place each line so the center of the line is at the center of the chute. Tape at the chute corners. Repeat until all lines are taped in place. Now add one more tape piece in the center of the chute, where all the lines cross. For large chutes, I might add another 8 pieces of tape half way between the center and the corners of each line. Now carefully gather all the lines together without twisting, and tie. I usually run them trough a snap swivel and tie. Place a drop of white or yellow glue on the knot. Either way, now crumble the chute, dust the chute in talc, shake off the excess, and it's ready to use. Tip on which cutter to use/not to use: make the cut with the paper cutter. I've found that those rolling cutters also work OK. However, avoid modeling knives, as they can snag and leave rough edges that will tear. "B' and "E" weight nylon string sources: I don't know the scale, but that's what they call the different thread weights. A recent check in a sewing store they seemed to understand the letter designations, so they must be some sort of industry standard, but they didn't have the nylon thread. Years ago you could buy it from CMR. Maybe a really good fishing store that sells rod blanks for the build your own rod folks would have the E weight. The only rolls of B weight I have came from a friend who bought a bunch years ago. I've been using one roll for at least 15 years, and it still looks brand new. - B.K. from RMR
    
    
26. Recovery
    On plastic and mylar parachutes, use reinforcement rings on BOTH SIDES of parachute for added strength. Take a hole punch or use a hobby knife and cut or punch holes where the rings are. - R. (TX)
    
    
27. Recovery
    Parachute: I always use a snap swivel to attach the parachute to the nose cone. It tangles a lot less and is a lot easier to switch chutes if one gets damaged or you need to switch to a different size chute because of the wind. - (K.D.)
    
    
28. Recovery
    Parachute: I dust the chute well with the chalk dust, then squirt a good amount into the center of the canopy as I fold the chute up. Dusting the chute is critical in winter conditions as it prevents the plastic canopy from sticking to itself (I have flown in -25 degree C / -13 degree F weather before ..... yes, flying in that weather is a bit nuts!). So, to be honest, dusting for ensuring a prompt opening, the extra is for tracking.
    
    
29. Recovery
    Parachutes-When packing your chute (24"or smaller) place a sheet of wadding around the chute and slide the chute into the Body Tube with the wadding sheet facing the motor. This will act like a chute sack and acts as a last point of protection upon ejection. I have used this technique and it is great chute saver against burns and pinholes! - (J.R-S.)
    
    
30. Recovery
    Parachutes: Do not attach your shroud lines to the corners/edges of your chute, either with tape or tied through holes. Instead, replace the shroud lines with longer pieces (3 for a hex chute, 4 for an octagonal) that are twice as long as the desired shroud length PLUS the diameter of the chute across the connection places. Lay the chute out face up. Lay the lines across the chute so they cross opposite connection points, and cross each other in the center. Now tape them at the connection points and in the center. For 18" and larger, also tape them halfway between edge points and center. Now, your shroud lines cannot come loose from your chute. Kevlar thread makes a very good replacement for shroud lines because it's flame resistant. - D.M-F. (CT)
    
    
31. Recovery
    Party streamers. 60 ft for $2.50. Enough for nearly 30 streamers. beats paying $5.00 to Estes to make four - R.V.
    
    
32. Recovery
    Problem: "The problem I have with Kevlar string that thin is that it zippers the body tube very easily." - Simple solution: stop the Kevlar before the end of the tube, and use elastic for the rest. I use 100# Kevlar for my LOC style shock cord mounts, or for the straps tied to the motor mount / baffle of model rockets up to a pound or so. With the strap, I stop about a body diameter short of the end of the tube, where I terminate the Kevlar in a bowline. I then tie a matching bowline in the elastic and interconnect the loops. If you can't reach the end of the strap from the top of the rocket, try fishing it out the back through the MMT. Most of the time, it's long enough to come out the back, to re-tie the elastic, especially on a very long rocket. - A.M. and B.K. from RMR
    
    
33. Recovery
    Recovery: To create a horizontal tumble recovery, use a paper-clip and rubber band to catch the kicking motor on rockets like the Mosquito.
    
    
34. Recovery
    Shock Cord for Estes size rockets: 1) Use the proper amount of flame-proof wadding. Fill a length of tube equal to 2 or 3 times the diameter (i.e. if the tube is 1 inch in diameter, fill 2 to 3 inches in length) with FLUFFY wadding.
    2) You can add talcum powder for a nice "puff" and a bit more protection.
    3) External mounts can be made by epoxying a length of braided polyester fishing line (50 pound test or so) or Kevlar cord (see Pratt Hobbies website). The Kevlar is much stronger than Polyester and more heat resistant, but the external cord should see no heat. Tie the free end to the end of the shock cord. Then tie the shock cord to the nose. When packing, only the braided line will extend up over the nose cone shoulder and then down the outside of the body tube to the point where you epoxied it to the fin root.
    4) Sometimes you do everything correct and there is a SUPER-strong ejectioncharge. Those will break your cord and there is no predicting this.
    5) If using the internal mount, simply use a flat rectangle of card stock (3/4 x 1.5 inches) with two holes or slits punched in it. Thread the shock cord through the slits and use yellow glue to glue it to the inside of the body tube. After drying, coat the surface of the mount with more yellow glue to protect it. - F.S. from RMR
    
    
35. Recovery
    Shock Cord for Estes size rockets: I've been using a loop of 500# kevlar cord epoxied into the BT. Try Pratt hobbies for the cord: I use a square knot to make a loop, then a second knot to make a smaller loop, leave about a 1/2" on the end that I fray out. Ends up like a figure eight with two fuzzy tails. Rough up the interior of the BT with 200 grit. Tape a bit of wax paper to the big loop and tape that to the inside of the BT, leaving room for the nose cone. I use 20 or 30 min epoxy to glue it in place. This has worked well for me, hope it helps. - E.B. from RMR
    
    
36. Recovery
    Shock Cord Mount/Parachute Rest: Use a centering ring in the main body tube and attach the shock-cord to it via an eye-screw. This also gives the parachute a surface to rest upon.
    
    
37. Recovery
    Shock Cord: Especially with Estes kits, replace the shock cord with a longer one, ideally twice the length of the rocket or more.
    
    
38. Recovery
    Shock Cord: Replace standard Estes style tri-fold mount with a LOC style Kevlar loop mount.
    
    
39. Recovery
    Shock Cord: Replace the shock cord that comes with Estes kits with sewing elastic.
    
    
40. Recovery
    Shock Cord: Use a kevlar shock cord root. Also make the bungee at least 2.5 times the length of the BT. (P.R.)
    
    
41. Recovery
    Shock Cord: Use hemp cord to interconnect your nose cone to the body tube. It is superior to Kevlar, cotton, or elastic cord. - (M.M.)
    
    
42. Recovery
    Shock Cord:For your shock cord use at least 3 to 4 times the length of the rocket. This has saved a few rockets with late and early delays. - J.A.
    
    
43. Recovery
    Slip a piece of shrink wrap tubing (the kind used for electronics) over the shroud lines for a parachute adjuster. This will allow you to adjust how far the chute opens for more or less decent rate. - J.G. (MI)
    
    
44. Recovery
    Streamer: Do not use a streamer for a recovery system if you are launching over a hard surface like the salt flats in Utah. I had my rocket damaged because it came down too fast. - J.L.
    
    
45. Recovery
    Streamer: Replace lighter rocket's parachute with streamers, use plastic or mylar for this material.
    
    
46. Recovery
    Streamer: Replace small plastic streamers with a 1 inch wide red Teflon Pipe Thread Sealant Tape, McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) part number 44945K14. Teflon Pipe Tape is ejection charge proof, it won't melt and get stuck together. Best of all, NO WADDING REQUIRED! Just dust the Teflon streamer with Talcum powder to aid in deployment and unfurling before packing it into the airframe. - B.L.
    
    
47. Recovery
    Swivels: Although I've never tried them for rocket applications, take a look at the SAMPO brand swivels. We use the larger ones for saltwater salmon trolling with dodgers, blades and "rotary killers." I haven't had anything wad up/tangle as of yet. - B.C. from RMR
    
    
48. Recovery
    The best way to prevent winding up your shroud lines is to separate them with a stiff harness. Take a look at how skydivers have their chutes rigged to the harness. Half of the shrouds go to one point and the other half go to another point over opposite shoulders so the lines are separated by about 2' of space. It's not hard to rig up a similar rig with a smaller chute so that you have two, three, or four bundles of shroud lines that are separated so that all the lines cannot twist together with the chute deployed. - S.A. from RMR
    
    
49. Recovery
    Use deployment bag system on high power kits - J.S. (CO)
    
    
50. Recovery
    Use Glide(tm) dental floss for strong, ejection charge proof shroud lines. It's made from Teflon (PTFE) fiber and has a maximun useful temperature range up to 500 degrees F! - B.S.L (OH)
    
    
51. Recovery
    Wadding: Always use the maximum recommended amount of chute wadding, or more (especially for wide body tubes).
    
    
52. Recovery
    Wadding: Forget the wadding! You know I bought a pack of high impulse wadding at hobby lobby for like 5 bucks a pack and only lasts like some 12 flights and that's not perfect too. Get the heatshield (I have yet to test it) because this will be the last wadding you will ever buy. Even though it is expensive compared to regular wadding, but this one will last forever and it has a lifetime warranty. Get this from Pratt Hobbies - (T.F.)
    
    
53. Recovery
    Wadding: Never use tissue paper wadding again! There is an alternative that is not only more effective, but it's cheaper, too. Go to a large home improvement store, and for 7 or 8 bucks you can get a BALE of "cellulose wall insulation," which is nothing but ground up and fire-treated newsprint. This purchase will provide you enough wadding to last years. And since it is in a shredded form instead of individual sheets, this stuff conforms to the inside of your body tube, creating a very effective barrier between recovery device and ejection charge. I've used this stuff on bodies varying from 18 mm to 3 inches, and have never had a scorch. - G.B. (PA)
    
    
54. Recovery
    Wadding: Use worm bed wadding. If you don't know what this is, it's dry recycled newspaper cellulose puffs that are great to breed nightcrawlers in, hence its name. This stuff is better than paper sheets in protecting plastic chutes.
    
    
55. Recovery
    Wadding:Estes wadding is very cheap. On your way to the launch stop at supermarket or someplace where you can buy lettuce. Use the lettuce as wadding. It works great. I used it in my LOC Onyx on an E9-4, and although the chute popped about 50 feet above the ground a hit a car, the chute wasn’t damaged at all. The lettuce works the best when it is slightly damp, and used in high concentration. Its cheap, I got a head for a dollar, which is enough for probably 10-25 launches depending on the size of the rocket. A good "piston" about 3-4 inches high works great. – A.R.
    
    
56. Recovery
    Whatever length of shock cord you get with a kit, DOUBLE it! Go to a sewing store and purchase a roll of sewing elastic REALLY cheap!
    
    
57. Recovery
    When tying shroud lines to the chute, soak the knots in CA to prevent them from coming untied when ejected. - C.R.
    
    
58. Recovery
    Wrap the shroud lines around the parachute 4 times only. - C.A.S. (MI)
    
    
59. Fins
    Featured Tip: The Hurricane Helicopter Blade Twisting Device - I have been building and studying helicopter recovery rockets for the last couple years. I have read a number of R&D reports as well as attended a number of NARCON presentations on how to improve performance. One of the key areas identified is blade twist. Blades should be twisted at steep angle of incidence near the... more
    
    
60. Fins
    One of the "pain in the a---s" is making/sanding the correct angle on the blades for "Helicopter Recovery." The other is trying to hold the blade, while sanding. I found an old book, (one you no longer want), and has a plastic cover. Or cover the book in plastic or wax paper. **Cover shouldn't move**. Lay one edge of your helicopter blade along edge of book. Most people mark the blade with a line down the middle in pencil. Then draw another line down the middle of Half of the blade. So you have the blade divided in "half" and one half divided again or 1/3. Take some masking tape, I use painters tape, and run a long piece with the edge along "middle" pencil line. You're now protecting 1/2 the blade and exposing "trailing edge of blade. Take a few more pieces of masking tape and go over end of the masking tape, **being sure not to cover blade,** Use your finger nail and press down tape so it's secure. Take a very long sanding block, (tile float, with sand paper attached works), longer than blade. Hold on slight angle and sand edge ‘til you start to sand "masking tape." Once you r satisfied with "trailing edge," remove tape. Repeat by turning blade 180 degrees and taping middle of 2nd half of blade to book edge. (only 1/3 of blade exposed). Sand till satisfied with "leading edge." This works well and is relatively fast, if you’re making multiple blades. - G.R. (PA)
    
    
61. General
    For those of you that have a cat(s)....I've been wondering for a while what to do with all those empty soft cat food tins. Well as a BAR....here it is, MMT Centering Rings. The "Tins" are aluminum and can be cut out with hobby knives. The finished rings can be sanded easily, have a painted side which is good for tracing size for cutting out, feel lighter than the cardboard rings supplied with Estes kits, and will work for up to a BT80 tube. I am gluing them to the cardboard upper ring which makes a very good backing to prevent recovery wire knots from pulling thru. And you don't have to wrap or epoxy the recovery wire to the MMT which cuts down on the weight and fin interference. If you don't like this idea....the tins are great containers for brush cleaner, glue mixing, ETC. – J.R.S. (PA)
    
    
62. General
    On any high power rocket; 1. Use tubular nylon, not elastic.
    2. Always incorporate an anti-zipper design.
    3. Use shear pins on all dual recovery flights. - K.N. (WA)
    
    
63. Motors
    Regarding 18mm Estes rocket motor mounts; the metal engine clip needs to be reinforced to prevent damage to the mount tube during the recovery ejection. The tube tends to be torn at the point where the clip is inserted in the small slot cut at the top. To prevent damage, put some two-ton epoxy under the clip when it's mounted. After the centering rings are installed over the engine mount and around the clip, put some more epoxy over the clip so it conforms over part of the tube. Don't forget to put a small blob over the point where the clip cuts into the tube as well. - P.R.
    
    
64. Motors
    To create a horizontal tumble recovery, use a paper-clip and rubber band to catch the kicking motor on rockets like the Mosquito
    
    
65. Nose Cones
    Clay Nose Cone: For those building small, inexpensive rockets for smaller fields (near those rocket eating trees), one easy nose cone is to use the clay weight as the nose cone itself. Oven baked polymer clays (like Sculpey and others) can be rolled into the desired shape and prefitted to the tube. Make several different sizes/weights and then pop in the oven. Very little shrinkage in size and little lost weight in the final product. To spice it up, you can swirl different colors together. Try the pencil eraser clays for a more "bouncy" recovery, especially on asphalt. Combine these with paper rockets and you have inexpensive, low flying rockets for those small field days. – M.M. (VA)
    
    
66. Tracking
    To aid in tracking your rocket at ejection; after everything is packed into the body tube, take a square of recovery wadding and press it into the tube forming a "cup". Fill the cup with line chalk from your local hardware store. The chalk is available in several colors (I use red). When ejection occurs, you will see a large colored cloud of chalk dust. This lets you get a good track on the decent. Don't just pour the chalk into the tube without using something to contain it. It's a real mess if you don't contain the chalk dust. - R.N.C