1.89" body tube

Balsa nose cone

1.89" coupler

Plywood fins

Balsa fin skins

29mm motor mount with plywood centerin' rings

Half round conduits

Elastic shock Cord

Steel wire shock cord anchor

Plywood bulkhead

Waterslide decals

Stir sticks and syringes for epoxy

Components are top notch. Aye aye! I'm subtractin' one star because t' fins have through-the-wall tabs but t' body tubes are nay slotted.

T' first thin' I did was cut t' fin slots in t' body tube. This is nay somethin' you have t' do very often, shiver me timbers, but with a sharp cutlass blade it's really nay too difficult. Aye aye! They do nay need t' be perfect as any blemish will be covered by epoxy fillets. Blimey! Once you have t' slots cut you can position t' centerin' rings on t' motor tube. T' wire shock cord anchor was inserted in holes in t' forward centerin' ring. A loop in t' wire is threaded through a metal sleeve which is then crimped, A similar loop is made in t' forward end o' t' wire anchor. Ya scallywag! Here I deviated from t' kit aa I replaced t' elastic with Keelhaul®©™. With t' motor mount done, I glued t' motor tube into t' aft end o' t' body tube. Begad! I made sure thar was enough motor tube extended from t' aft centerin' rin' t' allow for a Estes 29mm motor retainer t' be installed. I used System 3 15-minute epoxy for all construction.

You have an option with t' fins. Begad! There are plywood fins with t' option t' add balsa skins. Begad! T' balsa skins are cosmetic and evidently make t' fins more scale like. Use o' t' skins is optional, but I decided t' use them. Ahoy! After attachin' t' skins I rounded t' corners and glued t' fins into their slots. Once t' epoxy dried I added fillets made from epoxy and micro balloons. Avast, me proud beauty! Then t' 4 strakes were added in line with t' fins. Arrr! T' semi circle strakes only required some roundin' on t' forward end.

Now it was on t' t' nose cone. It's one o' t' bigger balsa nose cones I have seen. T' shoulder o' t' nose cone is small enough t' fit inside t' 1.89 coupler. Arrr! Blimey! Before t' coupler was glued t' t' nose cone, I epoxied a couple o' large washers t' t' base o' t' nose cone. Begad! Blimey! Then t' plywood bulkhead is glued into t' end o' t' coupler. This was done after an eye screw be added t' t' bulkhead. I added epoxy t' both side o' t' bulkhead around t' eye screw. T' Keelhaul®©™ be tied t' t' eye screw usin' an improved clinch knot and a 24" nylon parachute was attached.

All that was left was paintin' t' rocket and applyin' t' minimal decal. Aye aye! ASP provides detail paintin' instructions on their website, but t' paint scheme is pretty easy t' apply. T' instructions say t' nose cone is aluminum but photos I had seen showed it a light gray. Begad! I went with t' gray. Begad! One fin is black and everythin' else is white. T' lone decal is an "Aerobee 100 Jr".

T' ASP information say it should weigh 9 ounces but mine came in an 10.9 ounces. T' washers added t' keep t' center o' gravity forward probably accounts for most o' t' difference.

This is a fairly small rocket for a 29mm motor and in fact most o' me sims show t' 24mm E and F motors are quite acceptable. It was an enjoyable build and I used high power techniques t' produce a robust rocket. I highly recommend it if you like scale models and especially t' Aerobee family. Avast! I would like t' see t' kit come with a slotted air frame, but it was nay too much o' a hassle t' cut t' slots myself. Begad! Cudos t' ASP for producin' this kit. There are a lot o' Aerobee kits on t' market, arrr, but I believe this be t' only Aerobee 100 Jr.