Estes V-2 (3228) by Steve Lindeman

Semi-scale model of the V2 rocket.

General Inspection & Build Start (2012-07-19 23:22:59)

Received kit in the mail yesterday. Shipping box was slightly damaged but contents were packed in air pillows and un-damaged. Opened bag and checked that all parts of rocket were there and un-damaged.

Kit Contents

At this point I set the stock rubber shock cord aside and replaced it with 1/4" elastic shock cord then proceded to trim all the plastic. I know the instructions say to start with the engine mount first but I went with preparing the tail cone and nose cone first. The instructions (or should I say lack of) are the only thing that make this a level 3 build in my mind. Well that and the paint job. I have found in the past that Estes intructions are pretty good but these are lacking. I made an error in my measurments of where the F ring was supposed to go but thank goodness the glue had not yet set and I was able to re-position the ring at the correct spot. (Assembly photo 1 shows the black mark from where ring F was first set). After that I set it aside to dry overnight.

MM assembly & fins papered & primmed

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Install engine mount and prepare fins (2012-07-21 21:59:20)

Step 1 was done as decribed but I used 1/4" elastic cord instead of the supplied rubbber shock cord. The other slight modification here was to tie the shock cord around the motor tube instead of just tying it in a knot as Estes suggests. Next step was to apply wood glue to inside of body tube and then with the aid of the tail cone, I slide the engine mount into place. I then set this aside to dry overnight. At this point I grabbed the fins and rather than following the instructions, I grabed a couple of sheets of typing paper and the 3M Super 77 spray adhesive and proceeded to paper the fins. First I sprayed the paper with 3M adhesive then laid out all 4 fins. I then cut them out with an exacto knife and then repeated the process for the other side of the fins. After allowing adhesive to set for an hour the fins received first coat of Rust-olium 2X white primer. This was followed by sanding of all edeges and surfaces and another coat of primer. A final light sanding and light coat of primer and fins are ready to mount.

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Attaching Tail Cone & Fins (2012-07-22 21:50:48)

Finished step 3 of Engine Mount by applying a generous bead of super gel to the inside of main body and around the outside edge of centering ring F of motor mount and then sliding the tail cone into place. To my sad dismay the joint between tail cone and body tube is very poor. Had to use a lot of HobbyLite to try and smooth out the big bump but still have a very noticeable drop between body and tail. At this point I don't think the provided decal will cover it but will have to wait and see. OK, moving on to the fins and launch lugs. Following Step 1 again, (I really don't care for the way these instructions are laid out), I marked the body tube for the location of the launch lugs. At this point I devated from the instructions and went ahead and glued the launch lugs in place with wood glue. Took a break to go eat and let glue dry. Next step (2) was to grab the super gel again and apply a bead along the root edege of the first fin and set it in place as per instructions. This was repeated 3 more times to complete step 3. After allowing glue to dry, I went back over all fin joints and applyed a fillet of super gel. After fillets dried I gave them a light sanding and then gave the entire rocket a coat of Rust-olium 2X White Primer followed by the usual light sanding and then two coats of Krylon Yellow. Rocket set aside to dry over night.

Yellow paint applied

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Final Masking & Painting (NC & BT) (2012-07-23 14:37:20)

Today I finished the NC. After masking off the areas that I wanted left yellow with Frog tape I then sprayed the NC with Krylon Gloss Black. After waiting an hour I then removed tape. NC was then left outside to dry. While that dried I masked off the main BT to prep it for the black paint next. The tail cone and fins I will do last. OK, back to the NC. Gave it a quick wet sanding with 600 grit to smooth out lines, dried it off and then sprayed windex on NC and applied the decal. After getting decal in proper location took a dry rag and pressed out all water. NC was again set outside to dry for an hour then I applied a couple of coats of Krylon Clear Gloss to it and set it aside one last time to air dry.

Gray stripe is one of only two decals that come with kit

OK, back to the upper BT. Sprayed it with the Krylon Gloss Black then gave the paint an hour to dry before removing all tape. Will leave this paint job to sit over night before proceeding to fins and tail cone.

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Tail Cone & Fins (2012-07-24 23:17:04)

Again I masked off the areas that I want to remain yellow and then sprayed the TC and fins with Krylon Gloss Black. After waiting an hour I removed all tape and hung rocket outside to dry. After paint dried for a while I applied the second decal again using Windex to get it where I wanted it. After pressing out all water with a dry rag I set it aside for a while before giving it a couple of coats of clear coat. Just need to attach the parachute and this build is complete.

Glamour Shots

On a D12-5 in 5...4...3...

Recovery

Comments:
andres etchenique (November 25, 2013)
Hi Steve - beatifull job sir !!

Could you please share with me a list of all the finisshing supplies you used ? From the masking tape to the paint, etc ? Aslo what kinds of differnt glues, bonders and adhesives are you using ? Clearly the fins should not be glued with Elmers wood glue, but Elmers is probably better for the inside engine mount and guide lugs etc. Could you please elaborate ? Many thanks, you are a crafts-man sir !!

Andres

Miami, FL

Steve Lindeman (March 4, 2014)
Hi Andres,

First off let me thank you for your praise of my work as she is a beauty. Now as for the supplies used if you carefully reread each section I have mentioned all products used with exception of the Frogtape & HobbyLite. I used Delicate Surface Frogtape for all masking (availible at Wal-mart in the paint dept.) Primming was done with Rust-olium 2x, Black and Yellow spray paint was done with Krylon Gloss colors. As for the fin mounting see Attaching Tail Cone & Fins. I used Super Gel (made by the same folks that make Super Glue). The only other product used and mention by manufacture was the HobbyLite filler by Hobbico. I used this to even out the surfaces between the tail cone and body tube. This product I bought at Rider's Hobby Shop but any good hobby store that carries R/C planes and supplies should have it.

NOTE: HobbyLite has a number of different applications that it can be used for. I used it to make the canopy on the nose cone of my Estes X-15 clone. See: http://www.rocketreviews.com/x-15-3662.html
David Preneta (March 17, 2014)
Steve....Great looking V2, I just purchased one and will be assembling it soon. I see that you clear coat your rockets. The last two I built I didn't clear coat because I had a bad experience the first time I tried. I built a Big Bertha and took my time assembling it and painting it, it looked fantastic. Then applied a clear coat...which went on fine then as it dried it crackled and alligatored or fish scaled all over the rocket tube. I am hesitant to try clear coat again because of this. I used the same brand clear coat as paint finish so I didn't expect there to be any issue between the two. Have you ever had any problems with your clear coat? Would you have any idea what caused my crackling/alligator/fish scale result? The paint finish was dry before the clear coat was sprayed on. Any suggestions or application methods would be appreciated. Thanks...David.
Steve Lindeman (April 10, 2014)
David.... I've had that problem between primers and other paints of different brands (see my Baby Bertha Build) but never with my clear coats. I've always used Krylon Clear Gloss in very light coats and the only issue I've ever had was fogging due to weather being to cold when I tried to paint. The only thing I can think of is that you may have applied to heavy a coat as that will sometimes cause that but using the same brand as the colored paint I wouldn't think so and especially if the main paint was dry. As a rule I like to give mine a day or two to air dry before clear coating. Humidity can sometimes cause those issues as well. I wish I could be of more help but maybe someone else has some ideas as well. Will be looking for your pics when you get it finished. Are you going with the black & yellow as well or the camo?
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What You Can Do

Estes V-2 (3228)

By Steve Lindeman

Estes V2 (24mm)

What You Can Do