The original Estes S.P.E.V. was said to be a S pare P arts E limination V ehicle. The facecard called it a SP ace E xploration V ehicle. You can see the profile of the (then discontinued) Thor Agena B kit. The BT-70H tube was the same length as the Little Joe II, also discontinued. There is a ...
I've explained this before on the old "How To" website. The shoulders lips on the balsa adapters were a bit rounded. I wanted a sharper edge on them. We'll use the body tube edges to "sand" a sharper lip. First, rough sand the body tube end a bit. Here I'm using 220 grit. This is to just ...
The engine mount went together as normal, nothing out of the ordinary here. The Semroc centering rings are thicker than the old Estes rings. The red and white parachute will look good on this Saturn-ish looking model. I always add a snap swivel on builds. Right now there are no tangles in the ...
I usually sand down and square up the bases of nose cones and adapters. The wide BT-70 end of the big balsa adapter is the screw eye connection. After sanding, there was a recess with some broken up balsa. This wouldn't make a good place for the small screw eye threads to grab onto.
This ...
Sometimes the balsa on the edge of a nose cone shoulder or adapter can be chipped or rough. Here's one way to get a sharper line at the lip of the balsa adapters. Set the adapter into the adjoining tube. Leave a small gap Brush on CWF almost over the raised lip. You don't want the filler on the ...
Before burnishing the paper in the tube, be sure it is squarely set! The overhanging edge should be somewhat parallel to the body tube edge. From the center of the shim to the edges - Press and roll a dowel pushing the paper shim into the inside of the tube.
After the paper is in place, ...
Here's a tip I picked up on the Sirius Interrogator build: Set and tie the Kevlar length before gluing in the engine mount. Lay the mount next to the body tube, allowing for the engine mount tube being flush or extending a bit out the back. Fold over the Kevlar below the top edge of the body ...
Most builders simply run a line of glue down the lug and stick it on the model. Here's a cleaner method. Run a straight line of glue down the lug. To remove excess glue and straighten the glue line: Pinch your thumb and index fingertips together and run the "V" (formed by the fingertips) down ...
You've seen it at club launches - Many builders spray paint the entire model. Engine hooks, engine mounts and launch lug interiors get a coat of paint. I like to keep the back end clean. Sometimes the bare surfaces will get a rubbing of white glue to seal everything up. The rear mask on the ...
I used my favorite trim material for the thin lines at the segment joints. This is the Contact Paper Blackboard Covering Material available at Michael's Crafts. At the bottom of the picture is the kit instructions face card. Blow up the picture and you'll see the thin black lines.
1/16" ...
The tip of the nose cone is painted silver. I tend to use Aluminum in place of silver. It dries faster, won't show fingerprints and looks about the same. This tip would be hard to mask. I cut a narrow strip of Scotch tape in an arc. Look close at the picture and you can see the upward curve of ...
Here's the full mask on the lower section. Again this is divided into quarters, two black and two white quarters. The mask lines split around the extended "small fins". This required three small pieces of tape per small fin. I tried to match the face card illustration.
Decals were started ...
Whoops! This one should have gone in much earlier! So I screwed up. Remember, the blog is free - it isn't perfect. The vertical wide black roll patterns are divided into quarters. I used Scotch tape for the masks. TIP: You can use your aluminum angle to check how straight your mask ...
Lots of memories building this one. I built an Estes SPEV in 1972. Looking at it now it's easy to see the Thor Agena B and Little Joe parts being utilized. It's not a cheap kit, there is plenty off balsa used. There is also some Saturn V influence. This is a good model ...
Here's the next finished model listed on EBAY:
The Semroc SPEV
This is the same model built here on the blog.
You can bid or check out the auction HERE
Bidding finishes next Friday, December 20 at 7:00 p.m. EST
